Monday 27 May 2013

Hermès Artisans Share their Secrets


A `velvet-like` effect is created on a douches satin scarf by lifting off the threats with a tiny knife, and `shaving them off`

It can take 800 hours to make a coveted Hermès scarf. Or 2000 hours, if the design has many shades, and therefore require a longer colour layering process, starting from engraving or sketching to screen printing.  This is considered a short period, in comparison to the amount of time it takes for an apprentice to become fully skilled in making highly-desired handbags, which this luxury brand is perhaps best known for. Three years….three years which start with mastering a single task, for example double-stitching on a handle, and then progressing, month by month, year by year, to acquire expertise in making the final product.
The workshops of this famous brand are located in France (scarves are made near Lyon), in Monte Carlo (exquisite silk and jersey tops are created in the principality), and Switzerland, where a team of skilled craftsmen assembly their watches.

I learnt these, and other interesting facts from Hermès craftspeople that set up their stalls in the Saatchi Gallery, to answer questions, demonstrate their technique, and celebrate the year of the artisan, during a week-long Hermès Festival des Métiers (Festival of Crafts).

Burnt-orange – a trademark Hermès colour – features in many accessories, including scarves
 
I witnessed a demo of a Kelly bag being hand-stitched in front of my eyes; it may actually take 18 hours or more for it to be fully assembled, depending on the skin being used; for example crocodile and snake necessitate more precision in matching the pattern.
 Due to a very  high demand (now with the added pressure coming from the emerging economies), long and elaborate training for those who hand-make them, very strict quality control, and often difficulty in obtaining a perfect skin and shade of colour to make the whole bag, no wonder that a waiting list for a Kelly is growing, and growing!  
 
 

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